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Posted: 2026-08-07 07:00
 Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story.  The Shenandoah Valley is a 140–150 mile long and 25 miles wide geographic corridor located in western Virginia and the eastern panhandle of West Virginia. It is bounded to the east by the Blue Ridge Mountains and to the west by the Allegheny Mountains. Plus, the valley floor is bisected by Massanutten Mountain, a 50-mile ridge that splits the valley into sub-valleys and separates the north and south forks of the Shenandoah River. The region features karst topography with limestone bedrock that creates fertile soil, sinkholes, and extensive cave systems.  Grape growing in the Shenandoah Valley is shaped by the region’s position between the Allegheny Mountains and the Blue Ridge. These ranges create a rain shadow that results in lower annual precipitation compared to other parts of Virginia. Lower humidity reduces disease pressure, which can allow growers to extend the growing season when conditions permit. Vineyard elevations commonly range from roughly 900 to 1,500 feet, contributing to cooler nighttime temperatures. Soils in the area include limestone, shale, and loam, which drain efficiently and support varieties that benefit from moderate fertility and consistent water management. Like the rest of the Commonwealth, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc are popularly planted grapes, but the cooler climate is also suitable for Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino, Seyval Blanc, and late‑ripening vinifera varieties such as Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  From Cave Ridge Vineyard, it was time for the longest segment, 70+ miles south to Raphine. Having plenty of time, I took the more scenic Route 11 most of the trip, jumping onto Route 81 to avoid the traffic through downtown Harrisonburg and Staunton. Rockbridge Vineyards and Brewery is located in the southern portion of the Shenandoah Valley and has operated since 1992 under the direction of winemaker Shep Rouse. The property sits within a landscape of rolling farmland and limestone‑influenced soils typical of the Valley, and over several decades the estate has expanded its plantings to include vinifera and hybrid varieties suited to the region’s climate. Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Traminette, and Pinot Noir form part of the core vineyard holdings. More recently they added a brewery and cider program -- creating a combined wine, beer, and cider facility that should be attractive to all craft beverage lovers. I've tried several of their wines throughout the years and in fact served their St. Mary’s Blanc at our wedding. The wine is named for the St. Mary’s Wilderness, Virginia's largest designated wilderness area, encompassing approximately 10,000 acres (specifically 9,826 to 10,090 acres) of rugged terrain in the Blue Ridge Mountains. The current vintage is 100% Vidal Blanc and fermented to create a dry citrus profile. Looking forward to celebrating an anniversary with a new bottle.  So instead of wine, I opted for a flight of three beers and one cider. This flight started with their flagship Pale Ale which is based on Sierra Nevada's legendary Pale Ale. Expect a decent amount of citrus and pine at the front and tail. The Robust Porter followed which has that classic dry roasted and chocolate profile. The downfall, in my opinion, was the over abundance of hops. Their Coffee-Milk Stout batted third in the lineup and is a collaboration with Crucible Coffee Roasters. A solid beer; love the lactose. The final pour, and my favorite, was the Rock Dry Cider. They nailed this blend of Winesap and Golden Delicious apples; a cider that is dry, yet flavorful with a balanced tartness and acidity. Unfortunately their canning machine was out of service. Moving into the wine tasting bar I was able to sample two of my favorite Rockbridge expressions, the 2018 DeChiel Reserve Riesling and DeChiel Reserve Pinot Noir. Riesling has been a long‑standing focus at Rockbridge, and the estate’s plantings benefit from the Valley’s cooler nights and well‑drained soils. The estate grown 2018 DeChiel Reserve Riesling has .5% residual sugar, aged in stainless steel, and shows the age ability of the grape variety - a feature that is under appreciated. Expect orchard fruit, citrus, and firm acidity. Pinot Noir is less commonly planted in Virginia due to the state’s humidity and disease pressure, but the Shenandoah Valley’s lower rainfall and cooler nights make it one of the few regions in the state where the grape can be grown with consistency. The DeChiel Reserve Pinot Noir is produced from estate fruit and shows the lighter color and moderate tannin typical of the variety.
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Posted: 2026-08-05 07:11
Portugal’s olive‑growing tradition dates to Roman settlement, with long‑established groves across the Alentejo and Ribatejo plains. These regions contain warm Mediterranean conditions that combine with cooler Atlantic influences that help produce stable yields and consistent phenolic development. The Marmelo Estate sits within this zone, operating as a single‑source 240-hectare estate ear Évora (Alentejo) where all olives for the Olivari® Marmelo Estate Reserve bottling are grown, harvested, and milled on site. The oil is crafted from century-old Arbequina and Cordovil de Serpa olive trees. Cordovil de Serpa is the most emblematic olive variety of Portugal's Moura region and a primary cultivar in the Alentejo area, native to the towns of Serpa and Elvas. The olive provides oil that is typically bitter and spicy with leafy green or herbaceous aromas reminiscent of olive leaves and green tomato stalks. Arbequina olive trees originated in Catalonia, Spain and add fruit‑forward aromatics and softer texture. The hand harvest occurs between October 20 and November 15, targeting early‑to‑mid maturity fruit. Olives are milled within 90 minutes after harvest using a two‑phase cold‑extraction system -- a method designed to limit oxidation and preserve volatile compounds. The oil is filtered and stored in stainless-steel tanks under nitrogen until bottling, ensuring a unique lot code provides traceability to harvest logs and chemical analysis (e.g., free fatty acid ≤0.2%). Chemical analysis of recent Marmelo Estate Reserve batches shows free acidity within EVOO limits, peroxide values within EU thresholds, and total phenolics generally between 300–450 mg/kg, placing the oil in the medium‑to‑robust range for Portuguese production. The oil meets EU Extra Virgin standards and undergoes internal sensory panel verification. Farming practices are conventional but low‑residue, and pesticide‑residue tests comply with EU regulatory requirements. The oil provides medium intensity with an aroma of fresh herbs and almonds. Bitterness is moderate and arrives late in the finish. This structure supports use in grilled vegetables, tomato‑based dishes, seafood, and salads.
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Posted: 2026-08-04 17:32
 Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story.  The Shenandoah Valley is a 140–150 mile long and 25 miles wide geographic corridor located in western Virginia and the eastern panhandle of West Virginia. It is bounded to the east by the Blue Ridge Mountains and to the west by the Allegheny Mountains. Plus, the valley floor is bisected by Massanutten Mountain, a 50-mile ridge that splits the valley into sub-valleys and separates the north and south forks of the Shenandoah River. The region features karst topography with limestone bedrock that creates fertile soil, sinkholes, and extensive cave systems.  Grape growing in the Shenandoah Valley is shaped by the region’s position between the Allegheny Mountains and the Blue Ridge. These ranges create a rain shadow that results in lower annual precipitation compared to other parts of Virginia. Lower humidity reduces disease pressure, which can allow growers to extend the growing season when conditions permit. Vineyard elevations commonly range from roughly 900 to 1,500 feet, contributing to cooler nighttime temperatures. Soils in the area include limestone, shale, and loam, which drain efficiently and support varieties that benefit from moderate fertility and consistent water management. Like the rest of the Commonwealth, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc are popularly planted grapes, but the cooler climate is also suitable for Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino, Seyval Blanc, and late‑ripening vinifera varieties such as Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Cave Ridge Vineyard is located only a short drive from our first stop at Kindred Pointe and was established in 2000 by Randy and Karen Phillips. The property sits on a slope with limestone‑influenced soils typical of the central Valley, and the vineyard has expanded over time to include a mix of vinifera and hybrid varieties chosen for their suitability to the region’s climate. The estate plantings include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chambourcin, Riesling, Viognier, Petit Verdot, and several other varieties that respond well to the Valley’s lower humidity, extended growing season, and diurnal temperature shifts. The winery produces a range of wines from these estate vineyards, supplemented at times by fruit from nearby growers within the Shenandoah Valley American Viticultural Area.  We took a different approach this time. Instead of a flight we sat down with a glass of their Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Riesling ($32).Why? Well, how can you refuse a glass of sparkling Riesling? Riesling has long been planted at Cave Ridge and the grape responds well to the Valley’s limestone‑rich soils and cooler nighttime temperatures. Riesling’s naturally high acidity makes it suitable for sparkling wine production, and the Blanc de Blanc designation indicates that it is made entirely from white grapes. The wine shows the grape’s typical combination of acidity and light fruit character works well in the sparkling format.  On leaving, I purchased a trio of wines that seemed incredibly interesting. Albariño thrives in the Mid-Atlantic where it shows firmer structure and more pronounced stone‑fruit notes as opposed to Galicia. And I remember tasting their 2024 Albariño ($30) at a recent Governor's Cup event. Looking forward to compare this Shenandoah version with others from Maryland and Loudoun County. Rkatsiteli. How could I pass on this historic Georgian grape variety that is slowly expanding in the U.S. beyond New York's Finger Lakes. I expect the 2025 Rkatsiteli ($26) to show the variety’s typical combination of citrus, apple, and light spicey notes. I recently opened a bottle of white Cabernet Franc from Capstone Vineyards and this style must be a new trend as Cave Ridge offers a 2024 Blanc de Cabernet Franc ($27). To produce a white Cabernet Franc, the grapes are whole cluster pressed -- quickly after harvest -- to prevent any red pigments in the juice. Expecting a well structured wine with a lengthy finish.
Update: Well, we opened the 2025 Rkatsiteli and it is excellent. Light apple to pear on the nose followed by more concentrated pommeau character, subtle spices, and juicy acidity. Should have purchased more than one bottle.
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Posted: 2026-08-04 17:31
Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. The Shenandoah Valley is a 140–150 mile long and 25 miles wide geographic corridor located in western Virginia and the eastern panhandle of West Virginia. It is bounded to the east by the Blue Ridge Mountains and to the west by the Allegheny Mountains. Plus, the valley floor is bisected by Massanutten Mountain, a 50-mile ridge that splits the valley into sub-valleys and separates the north and south forks of the Shenandoah River. The region features karst topography with limestone bedrock that creates fertile soil, sinkholes, and extensive cave systems.  Grape growing in the Shenandoah Valley is shaped by the region’s position between the Allegheny Mountains and the Blue Ridge. These ranges create a rain shadow that results in lower annual precipitation compared to other parts of Virginia. Lower humidity reduces disease pressure, which can allow growers to extend the growing season when conditions permit. Vineyard elevations commonly range from roughly 900 to 1,500 feet, contributing to cooler nighttime temperatures. Soils in the area include limestone, shale, and loam, which drain efficiently and support varieties that benefit from moderate fertility and consistent water management. Like the rest of the Commonwealth, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc are popularly planted grapes, but the cooler climate is also suitable for Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino, Seyval Blanc, and late‑ripening vinifera varieties such as Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Our first stop of this trip was at The Winery at Kindred Pointe which sits within the central agricultural landscape of the Shenandoah Valley. The winery operates on a property that originally functioned as an equestrian farm. The transition to grape growing began in the early 2010s, when the owners planted varieties suited to the conditions of the region. The tasting room and surrounding structures retain elements of the site’s earlier use, including the horse imagery that appears on several wine labels. The winery produces small quantities of wine from estate fruit and from growers within the Shenandoah Valley American Viticultural Area.  The tasting flight offered at Kindred Pointe shows how they leverage the history and regional strengths of the Valley. We started with the Saving the Edinburg Mill ($32) , a blend of Albarino, Sauvignon Blanc, and Dazzle, that references the preservation of the historic pre-civil war era mill. For those like us newly introduced to the Dazzle grape, it was developed by the University of Arkansas that they describe as "floral and fruity with herbal and spicy aromas". Expect to enjoy peaches and other lively stone fruit while admiring the artwork.  We then moved on to a pair of Seyval Blanc wines starting with the stainless steel 2022 Seyval Blanc ($28). The is a fresh grapefruit forward wine with fantastic acidity. In contrast, the 2021 Seyval Blanc Skins ($28) was fermented on the skins which adds texture, tannin, and deeper color, while providing a more savory dimension that differs from the stainless‑steel style.  Turning to reds, Petit Verdot is a major focus appeared in two vintages and a blend. The 2019 Petit Verdot French ($35) is aged 36 months in French oak and shows how long aging softens tannins and integrates dark fruit flavors. The velvety fruit is layered with soft vanilla and earthy characters. The 2020 Petit Verdot ($32) offers a comparison shaped by both the vintage and aging in American oak for the same 36 month period. This version is spicier, not as velvety, and with closer to smokey cedar. The final wine wine to discuss is their 2021 Hungarian Blend ($38), an interesting and unique blend of equal parts Chambourcin, Petit Verdot, and Dornfelder. The typical Chambourcin profile is hidden as the 28 months in Hungarian oak and one year bottle aging softens the grapiness and allow the black fruit characters of the other two grapes to dominate. This is a savory fire pit sipper. But instead of purchasing the Hungarian Blend I came home on a hunch with their single varietal 2021 Dornfelder ($36) that was aged for 36 months in new Hungarian oak. Check back to see if that was a good all.
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Posted: 2026-07-27 07:00
Growers and consumers navigate a complex ecosystem of agricultural certifications -- each with its own standards, inspection protocols, and philosophical foundations. What does each certification mean? How do they differ? Some focus strictly on inputs, others on ecological outcomes, and even more incorporate social or animal‑welfare criteria. What follows is an overview of the major certifications used in organic, biodynamic, and regenerative agriculture. Overview
| Program |
Scope & Focus |
Verification Model |
Core Principles |
| USDA Organic |
National organic standard for crops & livestock |
Third‑party audit under federal regulation |
No synthetic fertilizers/pesticides, no GMOs, 3‑year transition |
| Certified Naturally Grown |
Community‑based alternative to USDA Organic |
Peer review inspections |
Small‑farm oriented; aligns closely with USDA Organic rules |
| Real Organic Project |
Add‑on label reinforcing soil‑based organic farming |
Annual inspection |
Soil‑grown crops; excludes hydroponics; pasture‑based livestock |
| Demeter Biodynamic |
Whole‑farm ecological system |
Third‑party audit |
Biodiversity, closed nutrient cycles, biodynamic preparations |
| A Greener World – Regenerative Certified |
Regenerative outcomes across crop & livestock systems |
Third‑party audit |
Soil health, biodiversity, measurable ecological improvement |
| Soil & Climate Initiative |
Outcome‑based regenerative verification |
Annual measurement & reporting |
Continuous improvement in soil function & climate impact |
| Regenerative Organic Certified (ROA) |
Regenerative organic agriculture |
Tiered certification (Bronze–Gold) |
Soil health, animal welfare, social fairness |
| Regenified™ |
Regenerative performance standard |
Tiered verification (Levels 1–6) |
Six soil‑health principles; whole‑system outcomes |
| Soil Regen |
Regenerative agronomy consulting & verification |
Data‑driven assessment |
Soil testing, biological improvement, farmer profitability |
| Regenerative Viticulture Foundation |
Regenerative grape‑growing & education |
Voluntary participation |
Soil restoration, biodiversity, One Block Challenge™ |
| Land to Market |
Regenerative sourcing for food, fiber & leather |
Outcome-based verification using Ecological Outcome Verification (EOV) |
Soil health, biodiversity, ecosystem function measured annually |
| Fibershed Climate Beneficial™ |
Regenerative fiber & textile systems |
Practices verified through carbon‑farm planning |
Soil carbon drawdown, climate‑positive land stewardship |
| Ethos™ |
Regenerative supply‑chain transparency |
Digital verification & traceability platform |
Outcome tracking, soil‑health metrics, producer‑level data integrity |
Organic Certifications
USDA Organic (National Organic Program)The USDA Organic seal represents the United States’ federal regulatory standard for organic production. It prohibits synthetic fertilizers, most synthetic pesticides, sewage‑sludge‑based amendments, and genetically modified organisms. Land must undergo a three‑year transition period before certification. Farms maintain an Organic System Plan (OSP) and undergo annual third‑party inspections.
USDA Transitional Organic This designation supports farms during the required three‑year transition to full USDA Organic status. It does not permit organic labeling on products but verifies that land is under compliant organic management. Transitional certification helps growers communicate progress to buyers and lenders. Certified Naturally Grown (CNG)CNG is a peer‑reviewed alternative to USDA Organic designed for small, direct‑market farms. Standards closely mirror USDA Organic, but inspections are conducted by fellow farmers rather than accredited auditors. CNG emphasizes transparency and community‑based verification.
Real Organic Project (ROP)ROP is an add‑on label for USDA‑certified farms that meet additional soil‑based requirements. It excludes hydroponic production and confinement livestock systems, reinforcing traditional organic principles centered on soil health and ecological integration.
Biodynamic Certification
Demeter Certified BiodynamicDemeter is the global biodynamic standard and one of the oldest ecological farming certifications. It builds on organic requirements and adds whole‑farm ecological criteria, mandatory biodiversity areas, limits on imported fertility, and use of biodynamic preparations. Certification requires annual inspections and licensing fees based on gross sales.
Regenerative Certifications
Regenerative Organic Certified® (ROC)ROC is administered by the Regenerative Organic Alliance and layers regenerative requirements on top of USDA Organic. It evaluates farms across three pillars: soil health, animal welfare, and social fairness. Practices include cover cropping, reduced tillage, and verified labor standards. ROC offers three tiers—Bronze, Silver, and Gold—based on performance. See also Regenerative Farming at Grgich Hills Estate and Domaine Bousquet, GAIA, and Regenerative Farming.
Regenified™ Regenified™ provides a structured way to document how farming decisions influence soil function and long‑term site health. Its 6‑3‑4 Standard aligns with many practices already familiar to growers: reduced tillage, permanent or seasonal cover crops, mixed‑species plantings, maintaining living roots through the year, and the controlled use of livestock for vegetation management. See also Understanding Certified Regenified™ Through Ashton Creek Vineyard.
Land to Market (Savory Institute) Land to Market, developed by the Savory Institute, is an outcomes‑based regenerative verification. It uses Ecological Outcome Verification (EOV) to measure soil health, biodiversity, and ecosystem function through short‑ and long‑term monitoring. Certification is tied to demonstrated ecological improvement rather than prescribed practices.
Soil & Climate Initiative (SCI)SCI is a regenerative verification program focused on measurable improvements in soil health and climate outcomes. It prioritizes continuous improvement rather than strict practice‑based standards, making it accessible to farms at various stages of transition.
Fibershed Climate Beneficial™ Fibershed’s Climate Beneficial™ certification applies to fiber and textile producers. It verifies that farming and grazing practices sequester carbon and improve soil health within regional fiber systems. The program is part of Fibershed’s broader effort to localize textile production.
A Greener World (AGW) A Greener World promotes practical, sustainable solutions in agriculture by supporting farmers and educating consumers. They offer a regenerative certification emphasizing soil health, biodiversity, and verified ecological outcomes. Standards apply to farms of various sizes and production types, including mixed crop‑livestock operations.
Soil RegenSoil Regen is a science‑based agronomy group that supports growers transitioning to regenerative systems through soil‑health testing, data‑driven consulting, and practical on‑farm guidance. The organization emphasizes measurable biological improvements rather than prescriptive practice lists. Their work connects soil function with economic resilience, helping producers adopt regenerative methods that fit their specific soils, climates, and operational goals.
Regenerative Viticulture Foundation (RVF)RVF is a nonprofit organization dedicated to advancing soil‑centered, climate‑positive grape growing through education, collaboration, and measurable outcomes. Its mission is to help winegrowers transition from extractive to regenerative practices that restore ecosystem function, improve soil health, and strengthen vineyard resilience. The foundation’s flagship initiative, the One Block Challenge™, invites growers to dedicate a single vineyard block to regenerative management—serving as a living demonstration of how small, evidence‑based changes can yield ecological and economic benefits. Ethos™ Ethos™ provides regenerative verification for farms and ranches, focusing on soil health, ecological outcomes, and transparent documentation. It is a data-driven platform that collaboratively monitors and reports on the holistic impacts of regenerative agriculture, from soil health to farmer and community wellbeing. Other Resources
Dodon Center for Ecological Farming
The Dodon Center for Ecological Farming promotes a transition to ecological farming and a sustainable food system through practical education, regenerative practices, and strategic partnerships. Their focus is on soil health, biodiversity, and local food production—bringing together farmers, consumers, and policymakers to build a resilient and fair future.
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