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Posted: 2026-08-14 09:49
 Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story.  The Warm Springs Valley is a narrow mountain valley in Bath County shaped by the Allegheny Highlands and has a long history of mineral‑spring activity which has been enticing visitors to the region since the early eighteenth century. The valley floor sits between parallel ridgelines, creating a landscape of mixed pasture, forest, and small agricultural holdings, with elevations rising sharply on both sides of the valley. Warm Springs Run flows through the center of the valley, fed by the natural warm springs that give the area its name. The combination of sheltered terrain, reliable water sources, and cooler nighttime temperatures has supported farming for more than two centuries and continues to define the geography surrounding Hot Springs and Warm Springs today.  Oakley Farm is one of these historical agricultural holdings - founded in 1834 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It is one of the oldest continuously operated farms in Bath County. The property sits at 2,400 feet on a karst limestone in Warm Springs, Virginia and is surrounded by the George Washington National Forest. Over nearly two centuries, three families have shaped and stewarded this farm. Today, Oakley is home to two ventures, Troddenvale and Foodlore, "each rooted in the land and in the traditions of food, farming, and gathering that continue to shape this valley".  Troddenvale can be roughly translated to the “valley road” and is inspired by the long history of visitors traveling to Virginia’s great springs region: the Warm Springs Valley. The cidery focuses on producing ciders from fruit grown in the Appalachian Highlands and their estate orchards include a mix of heirloom and modern apple varieties suited to the region’s cooler nights and well‑drained soils. I learned later that they also source apples from Virginia's modern pomme pioneer, Diane Flynt, and her Foggy Ridge Cider. Troddenvale's ciders emphasizes traditional styles without additions or adjustments. They rely on native yeasts that provides genuine complexity and individual character; fermenting in neutral oak that creates depth; and unfiltered bottling that provides texture.  During our visit I sampled five ciders that were offered as their weekend sampler. The first was the 2024 House Cider ($22), produced from a blend of apples grown on the farm and nearby orchards -- including Foggy Ridge. Interestingly the fresh pressed juice was fermented in a combination of French, American oak, and Black Locust barrels. House Cider is made in a straightforward manner, relying on natural acidity and the characteristics of the fruit to present a dry profile with moderate tannin and the light orchard‑fruit notes typical of Appalachian‑grown apples.  The 2024 Forage Cider ($26) was next and as the name suggests made from apples collected from wild or unmanaged trees located near to Oakley Farm. These trees often include older or unidentified varieties that persist in the region’s hollows, fence lines, and former homestead sites. Foraged apples can show higher tannin, variable acidity, and more rustic aromatics compared to cultivated fruit. The resulting cider presents a drier, more structured profile starting with an interesting sour grapefruit note that after strongly aerating mellows into a more Martinelli fresh apple flavor. The 2024 Petit Cider ($25) is produced from 100% Virginia Hewe’s Crab apples grown at Foggy Ridge, Countryside Farm & Nursery, and apples from Hidden Valley in Warm Springs planted by the forest service in the mid 1990s. After native fermentation and resting on its lees for many months, the cider was bottled and let to rest 10 months before release. The tasting notes genuinely reflect the orange marmalade notes that slowly open after the reduced aroma is allowed to aerate.  The 2024 A Little Man Sings ($30) is a natural wine made from Petit Manseng where the grapes were grown in Crozet Virginia at Grace Estates Winery and Chiles Family Orchards. The grapes were foot tread and macerated whole cluster for two weeks. Upon fermenting dry, the wine was pressed directly to barrel, blending with a small amount of reserve wine from previous vintages. The barrels sat open and un-topped for 12 months. The result is a tart wine with some pineapple and other tropical notes with a unique brown sugar character. And still plenty of acidity. The final offering is the 2023 Family Ties ($45) - a truly unique collaboration between Lightwell Survey and Troddenvale. This wine-cider hybrid is made from Traminette grapes blended with Virginia Hewe’s Crab. "Once the cider reached near-dryness, clusters of Traminette grapes were foot-tread, pressed, and combined with the cider in a neutral French oak barrel. The mixture rested undisturbed until it was racked off its lees in early March 2024 and bottled still." I really enjoyed this collaboration with the spicy and floral character of the grapes mingling with the tartness and tannin of the crabapples. Perhaps its blaspheming but I would augment with a little sparkling water to return the a more effervescent character. Cheers.
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Posted: 2026-08-12 07:00
Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. Hot Springs was our fist destination on day two, and like many towns in Bath County its development is tied to the long history of tourism centered around the region’s mineral springs. Visitors began arriving in the eighteenth century, and by the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries the Homestead Resort and surrounding businesses formed a small commercial district that served travelers seeking the springs and the mountain climate. The town today maintains a mix of long‑standing service establishments and newer small businesses that support both residents and visitors to the Allegheny Highlands. After traveling from Clifton Forge and through the scenic views of Alleghany Highlands and Bath County, we arrived in Hot Springs just in time for Bacova Beer to open for lunch. The brewery initially opened in 2017 and is owned and operated by Seth and Emily Ellis -- both having ties to Bath County’s community and outdoor culture. The name references the historic Bacova community and woodcraft enterprise that operated in the county during the mid‑twentieth century and known for producing handmade household goods. The brewery operates a five barrel brewhouse, a taproom offering a rotating lineup of beers, plus a kitchen serving pub fare and sandwiches. One of these sandwiches that immediately caught our attention was their Avocado BLT. Seemed like a great option to pair with their six beer flight. The first selection was the 180 Kölsch. The name derives from Seth doing a "180" regarding Emily's suggestion to brew this German style beer which their version follows the traditional approach: presenting a pale, restrained malt profile and a dry finish. Love it and have been sipping cans at home since our return. The Furious George is hybrid ale crossing an English Bitter with an American IPA, in other words, biscuity malt background as English Bitters pronounced dry hop character of an IPA. I'm not sure how I felt about this hybrid - would be interested in their version of a strict English Bitter. The Sally Amber is an amber ale -- a style traditionally defined by moderate malt sweetness, caramel notes, and a balanced hop presence. Yet the brewery augments this into a West-Coast style with a prominent supply of hops. Another where I would rather try a true Amber Ale The Harris Porter is a traditional English porter emphasizing roasted malt, chocolate, and coffee notes, with moderate bitterness and a fuller body than lighter ales. Love this beer - imagine sipping in Autumn among the mountain leaves. Bacova brews a year round Irish‑style red ale in the Conner O’Malley. This style typically shows moderate malt sweetness, light caramel notes, and a subtle toasted character, with a reddish hue derived from specialty malts. Nicely done and named for the family dog - a Siberian Huskey with red fur. The final offering in our flight was the seasonal Hay Fever wheat beer. Another very drinkable beer that matches the expected character of soft grain and subtle fruit with spice notes. Probably the best pairing choice with the Avocado BLT. Cheers.
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Posted: 2026-08-10 09:14
Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. Clifton Forge was our final destination for the first day of the trip and this town's development was closely tied to the expansion of the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway. Clifton Forge grew as a rail center beginning in the late nineteenth century, serving as a location for locomotive maintenance, crew changes, and freight movement through the Allegheny Mountains. The town’s commercial district formed around this activity, with hotels, restaurants, and taverns supporting rail workers and travelers. Jack Mason’s occupies a building within this historic core and reflects the town’s connection to rail‑based industry and the transition toward tourism and local commerce that followed the decline of heavy rail operations.  After checking into our hotel, we immediately ventured downtown to Jack Mason’s Tavern and Brewery. The operation was established in 2009 by Martha Atherholt and Wendy Hudler who named the tavern as a tribute to Martha’s grandfather, Jack Hiram Mason -- "whom they admired for his many and varied accomplishments". In July 2022 the tavern changed hands to lifelong friends of Martha's, Michael and Ann Foster, who retained the tavern name and tradition of naming beers in alliance with Clifton Forge's history.  The first beer I chose while waiting for my plate of Smoke Sausage and Kraut was their Loghopper Tavern Kölsch. I can't believe there isn't a Beer Centric post on Kölsch, so in brief this is a German style originating from Cologne, brewed as an ale but conditioned at cooler temperatures. This process creates a clean, light beer with moderate bitterness and subtle fruit notes. And the name "Loghopper" refers to the logging and timber activity in the Allegheny region, where workers moved timber along rail lines and through mountain passes. The beer nails the traditional profile of the style, offering a pale color, restrained malt character, and a dry finish. I then selected the Brother Perkins Brown Ale to pair with the smoked sausage. The name refers to a local preacher known within Clifton Forge’s community history. Brother Perkins was remembered for his role in local religious life and for his interactions with residents, becoming part of the town’s oral tradition. The ale offers a malt‑forward style with color and flavors associated with caramel, toast, and light chocolate. The beer blended nicely with the savory smokiness of the sausage and with the moderate alcohol level I was tempted to another pint -- but not after this long day.
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Posted: 2026-08-07 07:00
 Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story.  The Shenandoah Valley is a 140–150 mile long and 25 miles wide geographic corridor located in western Virginia and the eastern panhandle of West Virginia. It is bounded to the east by the Blue Ridge Mountains and to the west by the Allegheny Mountains. Plus, the valley floor is bisected by Massanutten Mountain, a 50-mile ridge that splits the valley into sub-valleys and separates the north and south forks of the Shenandoah River. The region features karst topography with limestone bedrock that creates fertile soil, sinkholes, and extensive cave systems.  Grape growing in the Shenandoah Valley is shaped by the region’s position between the Allegheny Mountains and the Blue Ridge. These ranges create a rain shadow that results in lower annual precipitation compared to other parts of Virginia. Lower humidity reduces disease pressure, which can allow growers to extend the growing season when conditions permit. Vineyard elevations commonly range from roughly 900 to 1,500 feet, contributing to cooler nighttime temperatures. Soils in the area include limestone, shale, and loam, which drain efficiently and support varieties that benefit from moderate fertility and consistent water management. Like the rest of the Commonwealth, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc are popularly planted grapes, but the cooler climate is also suitable for Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino, Seyval Blanc, and late‑ripening vinifera varieties such as Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  From Cave Ridge Vineyard, it was time for the longest segment, 70+ miles south to Raphine. Having plenty of time, I took the more scenic Route 11 most of the trip, jumping onto Route 81 to avoid the traffic through downtown Harrisonburg and Staunton. Rockbridge Vineyards and Brewery is located in the southern portion of the Shenandoah Valley and has operated since 1992 under the direction of winemaker Shep Rouse. The property sits within a landscape of rolling farmland and limestone‑influenced soils typical of the Valley, and over several decades the estate has expanded its plantings to include vinifera and hybrid varieties suited to the region’s climate. Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Traminette, and Pinot Noir form part of the core vineyard holdings. More recently they added a brewery and cider program -- creating a combined wine, beer, and cider facility that should be attractive to all craft beverage lovers. I've tried several of their wines throughout the years and in fact served their St. Mary’s Blanc at our wedding. The wine is named for the St. Mary’s Wilderness, Virginia's largest designated wilderness area, encompassing approximately 10,000 acres (specifically 9,826 to 10,090 acres) of rugged terrain in the Blue Ridge Mountains. The current vintage is 100% Vidal Blanc and fermented to create a dry citrus profile. Looking forward to celebrating an anniversary with a new bottle.  So instead of wine, I opted for a flight of three beers and one cider. This flight started with their flagship Pale Ale which is based on Sierra Nevada's legendary Pale Ale. Expect a decent amount of citrus and pine at the front and tail. The Robust Porter followed which has that classic dry roasted and chocolate profile. The downfall, in my opinion, was the over abundance of hops. Their Coffee-Milk Stout batted third in the lineup and is a collaboration with Crucible Coffee Roasters. A solid beer; love the lactose. The final pour, and my favorite, was the Rock Dry Cider. They nailed this blend of Winesap and Golden Delicious apples; a cider that is dry, yet flavorful with a balanced tartness and acidity. Unfortunately their canning machine was out of service. Moving into the wine tasting bar I was able to sample two of my favorite Rockbridge expressions, the 2018 DeChiel Reserve Riesling and DeChiel Reserve Pinot Noir. Riesling has been a long‑standing focus at Rockbridge, and the estate’s plantings benefit from the Valley’s cooler nights and well‑drained soils. The estate grown 2018 DeChiel Reserve Riesling has .5% residual sugar, aged in stainless steel, and shows the age ability of the grape variety - a feature that is under appreciated. Expect orchard fruit, citrus, and firm acidity. Pinot Noir is less commonly planted in Virginia due to the state’s humidity and disease pressure, but the Shenandoah Valley’s lower rainfall and cooler nights make it one of the few regions in the state where the grape can be grown with consistency. The DeChiel Reserve Pinot Noir is produced from estate fruit and shows the lighter color and moderate tannin typical of the variety.
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Posted: 2026-08-05 07:11
Portugal’s olive‑growing tradition dates to Roman settlement, with long‑established groves across the Alentejo and Ribatejo plains. These regions contain warm Mediterranean conditions that combine with cooler Atlantic influences that help produce stable yields and consistent phenolic development. The Marmelo Estate sits within this zone, operating as a single‑source 240-hectare estate ear Évora (Alentejo) where all olives for the Olivari® Marmelo Estate Reserve bottling are grown, harvested, and milled on site. The oil is crafted from century-old Arbequina and Cordovil de Serpa olive trees. Cordovil de Serpa is the most emblematic olive variety of Portugal's Moura region and a primary cultivar in the Alentejo area, native to the towns of Serpa and Elvas. The olive provides oil that is typically bitter and spicy with leafy green or herbaceous aromas reminiscent of olive leaves and green tomato stalks. Arbequina olive trees originated in Catalonia, Spain and add fruit‑forward aromatics and softer texture. The hand harvest occurs between October 20 and November 15, targeting early‑to‑mid maturity fruit. Olives are milled within 90 minutes after harvest using a two‑phase cold‑extraction system -- a method designed to limit oxidation and preserve volatile compounds. The oil is filtered and stored in stainless-steel tanks under nitrogen until bottling, ensuring a unique lot code provides traceability to harvest logs and chemical analysis (e.g., free fatty acid ≤0.2%). Chemical analysis of recent Marmelo Estate Reserve batches shows free acidity within EVOO limits, peroxide values within EU thresholds, and total phenolics generally between 300–450 mg/kg, placing the oil in the medium‑to‑robust range for Portuguese production. The oil meets EU Extra Virgin standards and undergoes internal sensory panel verification. Farming practices are conventional but low‑residue, and pesticide‑residue tests comply with EU regulatory requirements. The oil provides medium intensity with an aroma of fresh herbs and almonds. Bitterness is moderate and arrives late in the finish. This structure supports use in grilled vegetables, tomato‑based dishes, seafood, and salads.
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