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Posted: 2026-08-10 09:14
Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. Clifton Forge was our final destination for the first day of the trip and this town's development was closely tied to the expansion of the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway. Clifton Forge grew as a rail center beginning in the late nineteenth century, serving as a location for locomotive maintenance, crew changes, and freight movement through the Allegheny Mountains. The town’s commercial district formed around this activity, with hotels, restaurants, and taverns supporting rail workers and travelers. Jack Mason’s occupies a building within this historic core and reflects the town’s connection to rail‑based industry and the transition toward tourism and local commerce that followed the decline of heavy rail operations.  After checking into our hotel, we immediately ventured downtown to Jack Mason’s Tavern and Brewery. The operation was established in 2009 by Martha Atherholt and Wendy Hudler who named the tavern as a tribute to Martha’s grandfather, Jack Hiram Mason -- "whom they admired for his many and varied accomplishments". In July 2022 the tavern changed hands to lifelong friends of Martha's, Michael and Ann Foster, who retained the tavern name and tradition of naming beers in alliance with Clifton Forge's history.  The first beer I chose while waiting for my plate of Smoke Sausage and Kraut was their Loghopper Tavern Kölsch. I can't believe there isn't a Beer Centric post on Kölsch, so in brief this is a German style originating from Cologne, brewed as an ale but conditioned at cooler temperatures. This process creates a clean, light beer with moderate bitterness and subtle fruit notes. And the name "Loghopper" refers to the logging and timber activity in the Allegheny region, where workers moved timber along rail lines and through mountain passes. The beer nails the traditional profile of the style, offering a pale color, restrained malt character, and a dry finish. I then selected the Brother Perkins Brown Ale to pair with the smoked sausage. The name refers to a local preacher known within Clifton Forge’s community history. Brother Perkins was remembered for his role in local religious life and for his interactions with residents, becoming part of the town’s oral tradition. The ale offers a malt‑forward style with color and flavors associated with caramel, toast, and light chocolate. The beer blended nicely with the savory smokiness of the sausage and with the moderate alcohol level I was tempted to another pint -- but not after this long day.
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Posted: 2026-08-07 07:00
 Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story.  The Shenandoah Valley is a 140–150 mile long and 25 miles wide geographic corridor located in western Virginia and the eastern panhandle of West Virginia. It is bounded to the east by the Blue Ridge Mountains and to the west by the Allegheny Mountains. Plus, the valley floor is bisected by Massanutten Mountain, a 50-mile ridge that splits the valley into sub-valleys and separates the north and south forks of the Shenandoah River. The region features karst topography with limestone bedrock that creates fertile soil, sinkholes, and extensive cave systems.  Grape growing in the Shenandoah Valley is shaped by the region’s position between the Allegheny Mountains and the Blue Ridge. These ranges create a rain shadow that results in lower annual precipitation compared to other parts of Virginia. Lower humidity reduces disease pressure, which can allow growers to extend the growing season when conditions permit. Vineyard elevations commonly range from roughly 900 to 1,500 feet, contributing to cooler nighttime temperatures. Soils in the area include limestone, shale, and loam, which drain efficiently and support varieties that benefit from moderate fertility and consistent water management. Like the rest of the Commonwealth, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc are popularly planted grapes, but the cooler climate is also suitable for Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino, Seyval Blanc, and late‑ripening vinifera varieties such as Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  From Cave Ridge Vineyard, it was time for the longest segment, 70+ miles south to Raphine. Having plenty of time, I took the more scenic Route 11 most of the trip, jumping onto Route 81 to avoid the traffic through downtown Harrisonburg and Staunton. Rockbridge Vineyards and Brewery is located in the southern portion of the Shenandoah Valley and has operated since 1992 under the direction of winemaker Shep Rouse. The property sits within a landscape of rolling farmland and limestone‑influenced soils typical of the Valley, and over several decades the estate has expanded its plantings to include vinifera and hybrid varieties suited to the region’s climate. Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Traminette, and Pinot Noir form part of the core vineyard holdings. More recently they added a brewery and cider program -- creating a combined wine, beer, and cider facility that should be attractive to all craft beverage lovers. I've tried several of their wines throughout the years and in fact served their St. Mary’s Blanc at our wedding. The wine is named for the St. Mary’s Wilderness, Virginia's largest designated wilderness area, encompassing approximately 10,000 acres (specifically 9,826 to 10,090 acres) of rugged terrain in the Blue Ridge Mountains. The current vintage is 100% Vidal Blanc and fermented to create a dry citrus profile. Looking forward to celebrating an anniversary with a new bottle.  So instead of wine, I opted for a flight of three beers and one cider. This flight started with their flagship Pale Ale which is based on Sierra Nevada's legendary Pale Ale. Expect a decent amount of citrus and pine at the front and tail. The Robust Porter followed which has that classic dry roasted and chocolate profile. The downfall, in my opinion, was the over abundance of hops. Their Coffee-Milk Stout batted third in the lineup and is a collaboration with Crucible Coffee Roasters. A solid beer; love the lactose. The final pour, and my favorite, was the Rock Dry Cider. They nailed this blend of Winesap and Golden Delicious apples; a cider that is dry, yet flavorful with a balanced tartness and acidity. Unfortunately their canning machine was out of service. Moving into the wine tasting bar I was able to sample two of my favorite Rockbridge expressions, the 2018 DeChiel Reserve Riesling and DeChiel Reserve Pinot Noir. Riesling has been a long‑standing focus at Rockbridge, and the estate’s plantings benefit from the Valley’s cooler nights and well‑drained soils. The estate grown 2018 DeChiel Reserve Riesling has .5% residual sugar, aged in stainless steel, and shows the age ability of the grape variety - a feature that is under appreciated. Expect orchard fruit, citrus, and firm acidity. Pinot Noir is less commonly planted in Virginia due to the state’s humidity and disease pressure, but the Shenandoah Valley’s lower rainfall and cooler nights make it one of the few regions in the state where the grape can be grown with consistency. The DeChiel Reserve Pinot Noir is produced from estate fruit and shows the lighter color and moderate tannin typical of the variety.
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Posted: 2026-08-05 07:11
Portugal’s olive‑growing tradition dates to Roman settlement, with long‑established groves across the Alentejo and Ribatejo plains. These regions contain warm Mediterranean conditions that combine with cooler Atlantic influences that help produce stable yields and consistent phenolic development. The Marmelo Estate sits within this zone, operating as a single‑source 240-hectare estate ear Évora (Alentejo) where all olives for the Olivari® Marmelo Estate Reserve bottling are grown, harvested, and milled on site. The oil is crafted from century-old Arbequina and Cordovil de Serpa olive trees. Cordovil de Serpa is the most emblematic olive variety of Portugal's Moura region and a primary cultivar in the Alentejo area, native to the towns of Serpa and Elvas. The olive provides oil that is typically bitter and spicy with leafy green or herbaceous aromas reminiscent of olive leaves and green tomato stalks. Arbequina olive trees originated in Catalonia, Spain and add fruit‑forward aromatics and softer texture. The hand harvest occurs between October 20 and November 15, targeting early‑to‑mid maturity fruit. Olives are milled within 90 minutes after harvest using a two‑phase cold‑extraction system -- a method designed to limit oxidation and preserve volatile compounds. The oil is filtered and stored in stainless-steel tanks under nitrogen until bottling, ensuring a unique lot code provides traceability to harvest logs and chemical analysis (e.g., free fatty acid ≤0.2%). Chemical analysis of recent Marmelo Estate Reserve batches shows free acidity within EVOO limits, peroxide values within EU thresholds, and total phenolics generally between 300–450 mg/kg, placing the oil in the medium‑to‑robust range for Portuguese production. The oil meets EU Extra Virgin standards and undergoes internal sensory panel verification. Farming practices are conventional but low‑residue, and pesticide‑residue tests comply with EU regulatory requirements. The oil provides medium intensity with an aroma of fresh herbs and almonds. Bitterness is moderate and arrives late in the finish. This structure supports use in grilled vegetables, tomato‑based dishes, seafood, and salads.
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Posted: 2026-08-04 17:32
 Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story.  The Shenandoah Valley is a 140–150 mile long and 25 miles wide geographic corridor located in western Virginia and the eastern panhandle of West Virginia. It is bounded to the east by the Blue Ridge Mountains and to the west by the Allegheny Mountains. Plus, the valley floor is bisected by Massanutten Mountain, a 50-mile ridge that splits the valley into sub-valleys and separates the north and south forks of the Shenandoah River. The region features karst topography with limestone bedrock that creates fertile soil, sinkholes, and extensive cave systems.  Grape growing in the Shenandoah Valley is shaped by the region’s position between the Allegheny Mountains and the Blue Ridge. These ranges create a rain shadow that results in lower annual precipitation compared to other parts of Virginia. Lower humidity reduces disease pressure, which can allow growers to extend the growing season when conditions permit. Vineyard elevations commonly range from roughly 900 to 1,500 feet, contributing to cooler nighttime temperatures. Soils in the area include limestone, shale, and loam, which drain efficiently and support varieties that benefit from moderate fertility and consistent water management. Like the rest of the Commonwealth, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc are popularly planted grapes, but the cooler climate is also suitable for Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino, Seyval Blanc, and late‑ripening vinifera varieties such as Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Cave Ridge Vineyard is located only a short drive from our first stop at Kindred Pointe and was established in 2000 by Randy and Karen Phillips. The property sits on a slope with limestone‑influenced soils typical of the central Valley, and the vineyard has expanded over time to include a mix of vinifera and hybrid varieties chosen for their suitability to the region’s climate. The estate plantings include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chambourcin, Riesling, Viognier, Petit Verdot, and several other varieties that respond well to the Valley’s lower humidity, extended growing season, and diurnal temperature shifts. The winery produces a range of wines from these estate vineyards, supplemented at times by fruit from nearby growers within the Shenandoah Valley American Viticultural Area.  We took a different approach this time. Instead of a flight we sat down with a glass of their Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Riesling ($32).Why? Well, how can you refuse a glass of sparkling Riesling? Riesling has long been planted at Cave Ridge and the grape responds well to the Valley’s limestone‑rich soils and cooler nighttime temperatures. Riesling’s naturally high acidity makes it suitable for sparkling wine production, and the Blanc de Blanc designation indicates that it is made entirely from white grapes. The wine shows the grape’s typical combination of acidity and light fruit character works well in the sparkling format.  On leaving, I purchased a trio of wines that seemed incredibly interesting. Albariño thrives in the Mid-Atlantic where it shows firmer structure and more pronounced stone‑fruit notes as opposed to Galicia. And I remember tasting their 2024 Albariño ($30) at a recent Governor's Cup event. Looking forward to compare this Shenandoah version with others from Maryland and Loudoun County. Rkatsiteli. How could I pass on this historic Georgian grape variety that is slowly expanding in the U.S. beyond New York's Finger Lakes. I expect the 2025 Rkatsiteli ($26) to show the variety’s typical combination of citrus, apple, and light spicey notes. I recently opened a bottle of white Cabernet Franc from Capstone Vineyards and this style must be a new trend as Cave Ridge offers a 2024 Blanc de Cabernet Franc ($27). To produce a white Cabernet Franc, the grapes are whole cluster pressed -- quickly after harvest -- to prevent any red pigments in the juice. Expecting a well structured wine with a lengthy finish.
Update: Well, we opened the 2025 Rkatsiteli and it is excellent. Light apple to pear on the nose followed by more concentrated pommeau character, subtle spices, and juicy acidity. Should have purchased more than one bottle.
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Posted: 2026-08-04 17:31
Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. The Shenandoah Valley is a 140–150 mile long and 25 miles wide geographic corridor located in western Virginia and the eastern panhandle of West Virginia. It is bounded to the east by the Blue Ridge Mountains and to the west by the Allegheny Mountains. Plus, the valley floor is bisected by Massanutten Mountain, a 50-mile ridge that splits the valley into sub-valleys and separates the north and south forks of the Shenandoah River. The region features karst topography with limestone bedrock that creates fertile soil, sinkholes, and extensive cave systems.  Grape growing in the Shenandoah Valley is shaped by the region’s position between the Allegheny Mountains and the Blue Ridge. These ranges create a rain shadow that results in lower annual precipitation compared to other parts of Virginia. Lower humidity reduces disease pressure, which can allow growers to extend the growing season when conditions permit. Vineyard elevations commonly range from roughly 900 to 1,500 feet, contributing to cooler nighttime temperatures. Soils in the area include limestone, shale, and loam, which drain efficiently and support varieties that benefit from moderate fertility and consistent water management. Like the rest of the Commonwealth, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc are popularly planted grapes, but the cooler climate is also suitable for Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino, Seyval Blanc, and late‑ripening vinifera varieties such as Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Our first stop of this trip was at The Winery at Kindred Pointe which sits within the central agricultural landscape of the Shenandoah Valley. The winery operates on a property that originally functioned as an equestrian farm. The transition to grape growing began in the early 2010s, when the owners planted varieties suited to the conditions of the region. The tasting room and surrounding structures retain elements of the site’s earlier use, including the horse imagery that appears on several wine labels. The winery produces small quantities of wine from estate fruit and from growers within the Shenandoah Valley American Viticultural Area.  The tasting flight offered at Kindred Pointe shows how they leverage the history and regional strengths of the Valley. We started with the Saving the Edinburg Mill ($32) , a blend of Albarino, Sauvignon Blanc, and Dazzle, that references the preservation of the historic pre-civil war era mill. For those like us newly introduced to the Dazzle grape, it was developed by the University of Arkansas that they describe as "floral and fruity with herbal and spicy aromas". Expect to enjoy peaches and other lively stone fruit while admiring the artwork.  We then moved on to a pair of Seyval Blanc wines starting with the stainless steel 2022 Seyval Blanc ($28). The is a fresh grapefruit forward wine with fantastic acidity. In contrast, the 2021 Seyval Blanc Skins ($28) was fermented on the skins which adds texture, tannin, and deeper color, while providing a more savory dimension that differs from the stainless‑steel style.  Turning to reds, Petit Verdot is a major focus appeared in two vintages and a blend. The 2019 Petit Verdot French ($35) is aged 36 months in French oak and shows how long aging softens tannins and integrates dark fruit flavors. The velvety fruit is layered with soft vanilla and earthy characters. The 2020 Petit Verdot ($32) offers a comparison shaped by both the vintage and aging in American oak for the same 36 month period. This version is spicier, not as velvety, and with closer to smokey cedar. The final wine wine to discuss is their 2021 Hungarian Blend ($38), an interesting and unique blend of equal parts Chambourcin, Petit Verdot, and Dornfelder. The typical Chambourcin profile is hidden as the 28 months in Hungarian oak and one year bottle aging softens the grapiness and allow the black fruit characters of the other two grapes to dominate. This is a savory fire pit sipper. But instead of purchasing the Hungarian Blend I came home on a hunch with their single varietal 2021 Dornfelder ($36) that was aged for 36 months in new Hungarian oak. Check back to see if that was a good all.
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