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  • The Essence of the Olive: From Tree to Taste: How Olive Oil Is Made

    Posted: 2025-11-17 08:14

    Behind every golden drop of olive oil lies a process that blends ancient tradition with modern precision. Much like winemaking or distillation, olive oil production is a balance of art and science — where timing, technique, and terroir determine the outcome. From the grove to the press, each step in the journey shapes the oil’s flavor, aroma, and integrity.

    For those in the beverage world, understanding how olive oil is made offers valuable insight into its complexity — and the same appreciation we give to the craftsmanship behind a fine wine or spirit.

    Featured Producer
    Terre Francescane is located in Umbria and the Gradassi family has been farming olives for 400 years.  In 1639, when – according to an ancient inscription found on a stone in the old olive mill – the Gradassi family began farming olives. Four centuries later they still proudly harvest olives from the same fertile slopes their ancestors did. I picked up this bottle of their L'Italiano Black Ceramic at the Rome airport duty free store and wish I had purchased more. It's slightly sweet with a pleasant bitterness at the finish - easy for a teaspoon a day diet. 


    The Harvest: Timing Is Everything

    The olive harvest typically takes place between October and December in the Northern Hemisphere (and April to June in the Southern Hemisphere). The timing of the pick is crucial:

    • Early-harvest olives are greener, yielding robust, peppery oils with higher polyphenol content (the antioxidants that give structure and bite).

    • Late-harvest olives are riper, producing smoother, fruitier oils with a gentler profile and golden hue.

    Producers choose their harvest moment based on desired flavor, cultivar, and market style — much like vintners deciding when to pick grapes. In many small groves, olives are still hand-harvested, preserving fruit integrity and reducing bruising before pressing.


    From Fruit to Paste: The Milling Process

    Once harvested, speed is essential Olives begin to oxidize and ferment quickly after picking, so quality-focused producers rush them to the mill — often within hours.

    At the mill (frantoio in Italy or almazara in Spain), olives are washed and ground into a thick paste using hammer or blade mills. This paste contains both oil and water, and the goal is to separate the two while preserving the delicate aromas and flavors.


    Malaxation: The Quiet Transformation

    After milling, the olive paste is gently mixed in a process called malaxation. This slow churning (usually 20–40 minutes) allows small oil droplets to coalesce into larger ones — a critical step for flavor development. Temperature control here is key: to qualify as cold-extracted or cold-pressed, the process must stay below 27°C (80°F) to prevent flavor loss and preserve antioxidants.

    Professionals often compare this stage to maceration in winemaking or blending in distilling — it’s where texture, balance, and character begin to emerge.


    Extraction: Separating Liquid Gold

    Modern producers use cen, the purest and highest-quality grade, obtained mechanically without chemical refinement or excessive heat.

    The remaining byproduct, called pomace, can be repurposed for compost, fuel, or lower-grade oil production, aligning with sustainable agricultural practices.


    Storage & Bottling: Protecting Freshness

    Fresh olive oil is like fresh juice — vibrant, aromatic, and best enjoyed soon after production. It’s typically stored in stainless steel tanks under nitrogen or inert gas to minimize oxygen exposure and light damage. When bottled, dark glass or tins help preserve quality, and clear labeling ensures transparency on harvest date, origin, and cultivar.

    Much like wine, olive oil evolves over time — but rather than aging, it gradually loses intensity. The best producers encourage consumption within 12–18 months of harvest for peak flavor.


    Craft in Every Step

    From the meticulous timing of the harvest to the precision of cold extraction, making olive oil demands the same attention to detail that defines great winemaking and distillation. For beverage professionals, understanding this process transforms olive oil from a simple pantry item into a crafted product — one that speaks of place, producer, and philosophy.

    For travelers, visiting a working mill during harvest reveals a world alive with sensory energy — the hum of machinery, the scent of fresh-cut grass, and the taste of vivid green oil straight from the press. It’s an experience that captures both the science of extraction and the soul of the Mediterranean.



    Next week, 🌿 The World of Olive Trees: Exploring the Varieties Behind the Oil

  • On the Road to Old House Vineyards, Distillery and Brewery

    Posted: 2025-11-13 18:48
    I am very embarrassed to admit that this was my first visit to Old House Vineyards, Distillery and Brewery. And Culpeper is only about an hour drive away. In any case, it was well worth the visit. Our group tasted through a flight of beer, wine, and had a very impressive lunch from their Green Ribbon Kitchen. Beef Bourguignon for me.

    The beer flight consisted of the Big Iron Lager, Harvest Ale 2025, Sunburnt Farmer, and Pure and Simple Stout. The later was excellent, served on Nitro, and paired nicely with the stew.  The Harvest Ale 2025 was another standout brewed with 100% malted wheat and blended with Vidal Blanc pressings. Thus the vintage label. The Big Iron Lager is an American Pre-prohibition lager with more body than expected. I also wonder if a little rice makes it into the mash bill. Finally, the Sunburnt Farmer is an amber farmhouse house brewed with rye and wheat.  Expect a very distinct profile.

    The wine flight wove us through their Vidal Blanc, Rosie's Rose, Petit Verdot, and Bacchanalia Reserve (Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot blend). The reds were a surprise - my favorites of the flight. Nicely done. The Vidal Blanc is finished off-dry but the prolific acidity brightens the sugar blending it seamlessly into the tropical and stone fruits.  



  • Beer Centric: Kellerbier -- A Taste of Germany’s Cellar-Fresh Tradition

    Posted: 2025-11-06 06:30

    The next Beer Centric profile is Kellerbier -- a style that we are seeing more often -- most recently at Juicy Brewing Company with their Schultz. Few beer styles capture the essence of "from the cellar to the glass" like Kellerbier. Literally translating to "cellar beer", Kellerbier offers a glimpse into the origins of German lagering and the unfiltered, naturally conditioned beers that shaped Bavaria’s brewing identity. 

    A Brief History of Kellerbier

    Kellerbier traces its roots to Franconia, a historic brewing region in northern Bavaria. Before refrigeration and modern filtration, brewers stored their beers in cool underground cellars or Kellers to ferment and mature. These spaces were often carved into hillsides or caves and provided stable temperatures ideal for bottom-fermenting yeast, which thrives in cooler environments. 

    During the 16th and 17th centuries, Bavarian brewers perfected this technique, leading to the development of lagers as we know them today. But while many of those early beers evolved into clear, refined styles like Helles or Pilsner, Kellerbier remained raw, rustic, and closer to the brewer’s original intent—unfiltered, naturally cloudy, and full of flavor.

    Traditionally, Kellerbier was served directly from the lagering barrel in the cellar. These early versions had a shorter shelf life but were celebrated for their freshness, soft carbonation, and malty depth.

    How Kellerbier Is Made

    At its core, Kellerbier is a young, unfiltered lager, typically brewed using traditional German ingredients and methods. The malt bill typically involves Pilsner malt or a mix of Pilsner and Munich malts to achieve a balanced golden-to-amber color and a gentle malt sweetness. German noble hops -such as Hallertau Mittelfrüh, Tettnang, or Spalt - are added to provide delicate herbal and floral notes. Kellerbier employs lager yeast (Saccharomyces pastorianus), which ferments at cooler temperatures (around 8–12°C / 46–54°F). The beer is then cold-conditioned for several weeks to smooth out rough edges, though it is typically packaged and served before full maturation—retaining a slightly yeasty, bready character. Unlike filtered lagers, Kellerbier remains naturally hazy with yeast and proteins suspended in the beer. It is often naturally carbonated in the keg or bottle, giving it a gentle, creamy mouthfeel rather than a sharp carbonation.

    Styles and Variations

    There are two main variations of Kellerbier: Helles Kellerbier (or Zwickelbier) and Dunkles Kellerbier.  Helles Kellerbier is generally pale golden, lightly hopped, smooth, and slightly sweet. Zwickelbier—named after the Zwickel sample tap used to taste beer directly from the tank—is essentially a lighter, younger version of Kellerbier. In contrast, Dunkles Kellerbier is amber to deep copper in color, with toasted malt and caramel notes. This style is closer to the original Franconian cellared lagers.

  • The Essence of the Olive: Introducing Our Olive Oil Series

    Posted: 2025-11-03 07:16

    Few ingredients in the world of food carry as much heritage, versatility, and symbolism as olive oil. For thousands of years, this golden liquid has nourished civilizations, inspired poets, and defined entire culinary traditions. From the rocky hills of Greece to the sun-drenched groves of Spain, from the ancient presses of Italy to the emerging producers of California and beyond, olive oil remains a cornerstone of culture, craft, and cuisine.

    In this new series, we’ll explore olive oil from root to bottle — uncovering the stories, science, and people behind it. We’ll delve into how geography and climate shape its character, how different olive varieties yield distinctive aromas and flavors, and how modern producers balance innovation with ancient methods. You’ll learn what makes an extra virgin truly “extra,” how to taste olive oil like a professional, and how to pair it with food and wine.

    Join us on this journey through groves, mills, and markets as we uncover the world of olive oil — one harvest, one taste, one or two stories at a time.

    So let's jump in. What is Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO)? 

    Extra virgin olive oil is the highest quality grade of olive oil, made exclusively from the first cold-pressing of olives without heat or chemicals, resulting in a superior flavor, aroma, and higher nutritional value. The cold-pressing retains more antioxidants, polyphenols, and vitamin E, contributing to its anti-inflammatory properties and health benefits. Finally, the olive oil must have a free acidity level of 0.8% or less and is assessed by a tasting panel to ensure it has no defects and a distinct fruity character. 

    In contrast, virgin olive oil has a higher acidity level (between 0.8% and 2.0%) and may have minor defects detectable by taste, making it less flavorful and less nutritious than EVOO.  Virgin olive oil is often produced by blending refined olive oil with a small amount of virgin or extra virgin oil to improve its taste and color, which reduces its health benefits compared to EVOO. Since virgin olive oil is typically lighter in color, milder in flavor, and less expensive than extra virgin olive oil it is more suitable for cooking at higher temperatures where its flavor is less critical.

    The production of EVOO requires olives to be harvested at optimal ripeness and processed quickly (often within 90 minutes) to preserve quality, while virgin olive oil can be made from olives with higher acidity or from later harvests.  The production process will be covered more in depth next week with From Tree to Taste: How Olive Oil Is Made.

    Fattoria Poggio Alloro is an agritourism destination providing spectacular views of San Gimignano and the surrounding rolling hills. The farm is located 40km southwest from Florence and only 5km from San Gimignano.  The name Poggio Alloro means Bay Leaf Hill, and it refers to the bay laurel bushes that grow everywhere on their property. There's a multitude of agricultural commodities grown on the one hundred hectares from grapes; fruits; vegetables; and grains: barley, oats, corn, sunflowers, durum, wheat, farro; and olives.

    More specifically 1,500 olive trees that are used in the production of extra-virgin olive oil. The Leccino, Moraiolo, and Frantoio varieties are completely hand picked in November, and then cold pressed to guarantee superior quality.   Their EVOO has a golden yellow color with light green tones and has a stone fruit, slightly spicy flavor with an intense finish.

  • An Evening at the Embassy of the Republic of North Macedonia

    Posted: 2025-10-30 07:22

    Last week we attended an event through Embassy Experiences held at the Embassy of the Republic of North Macedonia.  We were drawn to the event specifically to try the Macedonia wines and food that were provided.  The Republic of North Macedonia is  located in the heart of the Balkan Peninsula in Southeast Europe.  It is situated in the northern part of the larger geographical region traditionally known as Macedonia, which is shared with Greece and Bulgaria. The country is bordered by Kosovo to the northwest, Serbia to the north, Bulgaria to the east, Greece to the south, and Albania to the west. 

    Although a landlocked country (it is separated from the Adriatic Sea by Albania and the Aegean Sea by Greece), the republic has both continental and Mediterranean influences on its climate. Its northeastern corner is separated from the nearest coastline by 200km (125 miles), while Lake Doiran at its southeastern edge lies just 55km (35 miles) from the coastal Greek town of Thessalonika on the Thessalonian Gulf.  The main wine-growing regions here are Pcinja-Osogovo in the north, Pelagonija-Polog in the south and Povardarie (the central Vardar River valley). The republic as a whole has 23,000 hectares (56,850 acres) of wine vineyards and a slightly larger coverage of vines harvested for table grapes.

    Courtesy of Tikveš Winery

    Tikveš
    is a prominent winegrowing subregion within the Povardarie, or Vardar river valley. Tikveš the region is also readily confused with the country's largest wine producer of the same name (Tikveš winery), based in the town of Kavadartsi where the majority of vineyards in Tikveš lie. Founded in 1885 in a region with centuries-old winemaking tradition, Tikveš Winery is now celebrating 140 years of wine production. 

    Courtesy of Tikveš Winery

    At the embassy event, we were able to sample several wines from Tikveš Winery as well as a grape Rakija. The buffet consisted of an assortment of delicious Balkan cuisine featuring Tavče gravče, a hearty baked bean stew traditionally cooked in clay pots and seasoned with paprika, mint, and other spices. There was also Burek, grape leaves, plenty of rice and chicken, and pastries and other desserts. As for the wine, they poured a dry Cabernet Sauvignon and off-dry Vranec (Vranac) as well as a delicious dry Žilavka and off-dry Alexandria (Rhine Riesling, Chardonnay, Smederevka, Sauvignon Blanc).  Here are the winery's description of the two flagship wines. 

    Tikveš Vranec
    The name “Vranec” translates to “black stallion”, which reflects the grape’s dark color and powerful character with complex aromas. The wild nature of Vranec is tamed in this wine, characterized by a rich ruby color, a sweetish taste, full body, and a long finish. It features a myriad of aromas of ripe forest fruits, prunes, and spices

    Tikveš Žilavka 
    Žilavka is a dry white wine with a gentle and discreet scent of flowers and fresh and fruity taste. It is made from the indigenous grape variety of the same name, derived from ‘žilav,’ meaning ‘tough’ or ‘resilient’. This reflects the grape’s ability to withstand the hot climate, drought, and poor soils. Overall, Žilavka offers a delightful combination of vivid freshness, fruitiness, and minerality, making it a great choice for those seeking a unique and enjoyable experience.


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