Blogs

Wine Compass Blog
My Vine Spot
Fermentation: The Daily Wine Blog
Wannabe Wino
Dave McIntyre’s WineLine
A Glass After Work
Texas Wine Lover
One Girl, One Glass, One World
Wizard of Whiskey
Palate Press
Wine Trail Traveler
East Coast Wineries
Vintage Texas
Hudson River Valley Wineries
Wino sapien
Vinography
The Iowa Wino
Good Wine Under $20
Toledo Wines and Vines
Through The Grape Vine
Brooklynguy's Wine and Food Blog
The Pinotage Club
A Passionate Foodie

WineCompass

syndicated content powered by FeedBurner

  • Understanding Certified Regenified™ Through Ashton Creek Vineyard

    Posted: 2026-06-25 07:40
    Recently we read that Ashton Creek Vineyard becoming the first vineyard in Virginia to earn Certified Regenified™ status.  We have written previously about Regenerative Farming and the various regulations stipulated through USDA Certified Organic, Demeter Biodynamic, or Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC).  But not Regenified™.

    In general, Regenerative agriculture is a collection of practices that focus on regenerating soil health and the full farm ecosystem. In practice, regenerative organic agriculture can look like cover cropping, crop rotation, low- to no-till, compost, and zero use of persistent chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Layered into these practices, depending on a farm’s needs, could be the addition of perennials, development of pollinator and wildlife habitats, incorporation of agroforestry systems, vegetative barriers, and other regenerative practices that are shown to contribute to the development of soil organic matter

    More specifically, Regenified™ provides a structured way to document how farming decisions influence soil function and long‑term site health. Its 6‑3‑4 Standard aligns with many practices already familiar to growers: reduced tillage, permanent or seasonal cover crops, mixed‑species plantings, maintaining living roots through the year, and the controlled use of livestock for vegetation management. 

    The 6‑3‑4 Standard is Regenified™’s core framework for evaluating regenerative agriculture, combining six soil‑health principles, three rules of adaptive stewardship, and four ecosystem processes into a single, measurable structure. The six principles—context, minimizing disturbance, soil armor, diversity, living roots, and livestock integration—outline the foundational conditions needed for healthy soil function. The three adaptive‑stewardship rules emphasize planning with intent, monitoring conditions, and adjusting management as variability occurs. The four ecosystem processes—energy flow, water cycle, mineral cycle, and community dynamics—describe how a functioning landscape moves energy, water, and nutrients through the system. Together, these components allow Regenified™ to assess both the practices a producer implements and the ecological outcomes observed on the ground, forming the basis for its data collection and tiered certification program.

    During verification, trained assessors collect more than sixty ecological data points within vineyard blocks—water infiltration in alleys, ground‑cover percentages, compaction layers that affect rooting depth, biological activity around root zones, and the diversity of plant communities that influence soil structure and pest dynamics. These measurements create a practical record of how the vineyard is functioning beyond yield and canopy metrics. Growers are then placed within a tiered certification system that reflects their current alignment with regenerative principles and the ecological outcomes observed on site. For vineyards interested in demonstrating stewardship with clear, repeatable criteria, the framework offers a consistent way to track progress and communicate improvements to buyers, neighbors, and regional partners.

    Screenshot from Ashton Creek Vineyard's website.

    In 2018, Ashton Creek Vineyard started struggling with ever-increasing inputs and declining soil health and two years later began moving to a more organic and regenerative approach to viticulture. The idea was to "fix the root cause of the sickness instead of always addressing the symptoms". For example, struggling to keep up with mechanical weeding, they introduced Dorper sheep to their vineyards to help control vegetation and enhance soil health. Next they released beneficial bugs to target vineyard pests and diversified their cover crop plantings. This process eventually led to the Regenified™ program and they earned Tier 3 Certified Regenified™ status in May 20, 2026.  This certification recognizes their "measurable progress in soil health and ecosystem function, achieved through practices such as replacing diesel mowers with a flock of sheep, eliminating synthetic inputs, and increasing soil organic matter". 

    In practical terms, adopting these practices have allowed Ashton Creek Vineyard to "eliminate synthetic fertilizers and herbicides, decrease fungicide use by 40%, limit mowing and labor, reduce outside inputs by 65%, and increase their soil’s organic matter by 400% and carbon capture by 350%." --Virginia Farm Bureau

    If other vineyards or farms are interested in replicating Ashton Creek Vineyard's success, our next Regenerative Farming post will explain the NRCS Regenerative Pilot Program - a new program encouraging regenerative farming through the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Natural Resources Conservation Service. 

  • Father's Day with the Van Winkle Family - a Jack Rose Dining Saloon Tasting

    Posted: 2026-06-22 10:15

    Father’s Day at Jack Rose Dining Saloon offered an opportunity to revisit the Van Winkle family’s long arc through American whiskey, presented through both biography and a focused tasting. The program was presented by Chris Leung (Lead Whiskey Advisor at Jack Rose) who opened with the story of Julian "Pappy" Van Winkle. Pappy's career began as a traveling salesman for W.L. Weller & Sons in the mid-1890s. That early work eventually positioned him to help form Stitzel‑Weller Distillery after Prohibition, where he served as the first president. The discussion then moved forward to Julian Van Winkle III, who entered a joint venture with Buffalo Trace Distillery in 2002, establishing a partnership that allows Buffalo Trace to produce, age, and bottle all Van Winkle whiskeys under strict family guidelines.   

    The Lineup:

    • Elmer T. Lee | single barrel, x YR, 90° 
    • Weller Single Barrel 2025 KST | x YR, 97° 
    • Weller Full Proof “Jack Rose 2019” Single Barrel KST | x YR, 114° 
    • Old Rip Van Winkle KST | 10 YR, 107° 
    • Van Winkle Family Reserve Lot B KST | 12 YR, 90.4° 
    • Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye KST | 13 YR, 95.6°

    The tasting began with Elmer T. Lee (90°), a single‑barrel bourbon I associated it with a smooth Ancient Age character. A small addition of water opened the aromatics toward honeyed nuts, while the high‑rye mash bill kept the structure firm. The Weller Single Barrel 2025 KST (97°) followed, showing nutmeg and baking spices on the nose and a buttered‑popcorn note on the palate; water brought out pepper and dill. As a high‑wheat bourbon, it presented a softer grain profile, though the single‑barrel selection added definition.

    The Weller Full Proof “Jack Rose 2019” Single Barrel KST (114°) offered a warmer expression with more concentrated baking spices and a toasted‑bread character touched with cinnamon sugar. The discussion noted that “full proof” is not a technical indicator of style, and that barrel selection remains the more meaningful variable. Moving into the Van Winkle lineup, Old Rip Van Winkle 10 Year (107°) showed orange peel, herbs, macadamia nuts, and a light butter‑honey note—youthful but balanced.

    The Van Winkle Family Reserve Lot B (12 Year, 90.4°) displayed cinnamon and herbal aromatics with a rounded, buttery mouthfeel. A touch of water increased the alcohol’s presence rather than softening it, a reminder of how older wheated bourbons can behave in the glass. The final pour, Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye (13 Year, 95.6°), shifted the profile entirely to fir‑like aromatics and herbaceous notes that distinguished it from the preceding bourbons and provided a clean, structured finish. 

  • Beer Centric: Dortmunder Export and Cushwa Brewing Company’s Starting Over

    Posted: 2026-06-15 07:08

    Dortmunder Export is one of those silent European lager styles that rarely gets the spotlight. Born in the industrial city of Dortmund in the mid‑19th century (first brewed in 1873 by DUB), it emerged during the same era that produced Pilsner and Munich Helles -- yet it carved out its own identity: a pale lager with the soft malt depth of Helles, a hoppy base of a German Pilsner, the firm minerality of Dortmund’s brewing water, and a slightly elevated strength (higher gravity) that made it suitable for export. By the early 20th century, Dortmunder breweries like Dortmunder Union (DUB) and Dortmunder Actien Brauerei (DAB) were shipping beer across Europe to consumers who enjoyed balancing drinkability with a subtle, structured backbone.

    A recent trip to Hagerstown, Maryland included a visit to Cushwa Brewing Company where their Starting Over Dortmunder is available via a 16oz can.  This modern American interpretation respects that balance between drinkability and  the structured backbone.. Brewed to 5.0% ABV, it presents the style’s hallmark clarity and golden hue, leaning into a clean and soft malt profile supported by gentle bitterness. The beer pours a bright straw‑gold with a tight white head, offering soft grain aromatics and a touch of herbal hop character. On the palate, it’s rounded but not sweet, finishing dry with the faint mineral edge that defines the style. This is a faithful nod to Dortmund’s brewing heritage.

  • The Virginia Birthplace of American Spirits Collection: The Coast Rum

    Posted: 2026-06-11 06:00

    "America's first spirit was rum... For a solid 150-plus years, that's what we drank." -- Barry Hanenberg of Virago Spirits (CBS6 Richmond Interview)

    And somehow we have forgotten that fact. Rum was the widely produced in the colonies, with New England distilleries converting Caribbean molasses into a domestic staple as early as the 1640s . By the mid‑18th century, rum was so embedded in daily life that consumption reached an estimated fourteen liters per person annually, effectively making it the national drink of colonial America. British taxation-- starting with the Molasses Act of 1733 and then the Sugar Act of 1764 -- choked off affordable molasses imports, crippling the industry and paving the way for whiskey’s rise after the Revolution. Prohibition dealt another blow, and when legal drinking returned in 1933, Americans largely favored imported Caribbean rum rather than rebuilding a domestic tradition.

    Today. several entities are attempting to rebuild this American Rum tradition such as Caroline Porsiel, Founder & CEO, House of Applejay Distillery and Co-Founder of the American Brandy & Rum (AMBRu) Campaign as well as BevFluence and their timely TERROIR campaign,  a multi-dimensional campaign across seven locked categories: Touriga Nacional and Portuguese varietals, Emerging spirits, Riesling, Rum, Obscure, Italian varietals, and Rye. A third entity is the Virginia Spirits Guild, who in partnership with the Virginia Spirits Board, the Virginia American Revolution 250 Commission, and Virginia ABC, created the The Virginia: Birthplace of American Spirits Collection. This is a limited‑edition three‑bottle release to commemorate America’s 250th anniversary and to highlight the Commonwealth’s foundational role in early American distillation. The trio of spirits includes a botanical gin, a four‑grain whiskey, and an aged rum—each designed to reflect a different geographic and historical dimension of Virginia’s distilling heritage

    The rum in the collection - nicknamed the Coast expression -- was crafted under the leadership of Barry Hanenberg of Virago Spirits, who brought together the complementary strengths of Vitae Spirits, Belmont Farm Distillery, and Chesapeake Bay Distillery to create a blend that reflects Virginia’s Tidewater identity and its deep colonial ties to the molasses trade. Drawing on rums contributed by three of the partner distilleries, the team built a spirit averaged 7.5 years of age and weighing in at a robust 105‑proof. From the same CBS6Richmond interview, Hanenberg refers to the Coast as "a sipping rum" that will surprise whiskey drinkers with preconceived notions.  It provides a complex experience, with layers of what I would describe as honey and caramel drizzled on toasted macadamia nuts between earthiness, and oak inspired baking notes. 

    The individual components of the rum were driven by each contributor's distilling philosophy. According to anonymous sources, Virago’s house style is rooted in their Caribbean‑influenced pot‑still and a focus on layered, oxidative depth. Their contribution shaped the blend’s weight, mid‑palate richness, and molasses‑forward profile. Vitae Spirits added the brightest, most aromatic elements in the blend. Known for their cane‑juice‑driven distillation and precision fermentation, Vitae’s rum brought lift, tropical notes, and grassy freshness beneath the deeper molasses tones. Belmont Farm Distillery contributed a traditional pot‑still rum that added rusticity, structure, and oak‑leaning edges. And finally, Chesapeake Bay Distillery supplied a clean, column‑still‑driven rum that helped lengthen the finish, sharpen the structure, and keep the blend from becoming overly dense.

    "No one goes to the liquor store and says, 'Let me get that American rum.' That category doesn't exist yet. That's what we need to create, and I think when people taste this, they're going to start thinking differently about the rums they can get from the continental United States." -- Barry Hanenberg of Virago Spirits (CBS6 Richmond Interview)

    Let's toast to America’s 250th anniversary, the Virginia distilling tradition, and the revival of the American Rum category.  

  • Grape Spotlight: Moravian Pálava Using Sonberk as a Benchmark

    Posted: 2026-06-08 07:14

    Pálava tells the story of modern Moravia: a native grape rooted in tradition, yet confident enough to speak to the world. For many Czech wine lovers, Pálava represents a distinctly Moravian style of wine and is often considered one of the country's signature varieties. -- Sonberk Winery **

    During an evening at the Czechia Embassy, we tasted two expressions of a local hybrid Pálava - a variety developed in Moravia by Josef Veverka from a crossbreeding Gewürztraminer and Müller-Thurgau. The new grape was named after the Pálava Hills, a UNESCO-protected landscape area in South Moravia renowned for its vineyards, limestone slopes, and centuries-old winemaking tradition. The breeding station where Veverka completed his work was located on the slopes of these hills, making the name a natural tribute to the region. Imagine the aromatics in these wines. First, though, let's step into the terroir. 

    Moravia is the Czech Republic's viticultural engine and is responsible for 96% of Czech wine production. The region sits along the 49th parallel, sharing a latitude with Alsace and Champagne. It also resides at the intersection of Pannonian warmth and Central European coolness which helps explain its hallmark style: high‑acid, aromatic wines shaped by warm summers, cool autumns, and slow ripening. Vineyards typically lie between 240–320 meters in elevation and the soil is a mosaic of loess, limestone, sand, and ancient seabed deposits.

    Mikulov is a subregion of Moravia and is dominated by the limestone massif of Pálava -- one of Moravia’s most distinctive terroirs. It excels in Welsch Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and the local aromatic cross Pálava. The town of Mikulov is a cultural and wine hub, home to festivals and historic wine presses. 

    Pálava is a mid‑ to late‑ripening variety, typically reaching full maturity toward the end of the harvest window in South Moravia. It thrives in warm exposures where it can accumulate flavor precursors without losing acidity. The grape forms medium‑compact clusters with small to medium berries, thick enough in skin to contribute a gentle phenolic grip an advantage over its parents. Yields must be controlled; if overcropped, aromatics flatten and the wine loses its distinctive spice. In the right sites, however, Pálava develops a layered aromatic profile while maintaining enough acidity to avoid heaviness. The result is unmistakable: a wine that marries Traminer’s rose‑petal aromatics with the gentle acidity and orchard‑fruit charm of Müller‑Thurgau.

    Sonberk Winery stands on a vineyard site cultivated since at least the 13th century, historically prized for its south‑facing slopes overlooking the Pálava Hills in the Mikulov subregion. Founded in 2003, the modern winery was built in 2008 and is recognized as one of Czechia’s first examples of contemporary wine architecture. Sonberk farms roughly 40–45 hectares on loess soils and produces acclaimed whites - especially Riesling, Pálava, Traminer, and Sauvignon - known for focusing on low yields, hand harvesting, and meticulous vineyard work to highlight the character of Mikulov's limestone terroir. 

    "One of Pálava's greatest strengths is its versatility. Few aromatic varieties are capable of expressing themselves so convincingly across different levels of sweetness. In our experience, a near-dry style with around 5–6 g/L of residual sugar offers exceptional harmony at the table, allowing the wine's freshness and aromatics to shine. At the same time, Pálava can achieve extraordinary results in sweeter styles, including traditional straw wines with residual sugar levels approaching 190 g/L, where its floral character and exotic fruit notes gain impressive depth and complexity. **"

    The winery's approach to Pálava is deliberately restrained: fermentations are cool, aromatics are preserved, and residual sugar is kept in balance with acidity. The result is a style that feels modern and architectural --aromatic but not exaggerated, textured but never heavy. Sonberk’s Pálava typically shows layers of white peach, lychee, citrus blossom, and ginger, grounded by a mineral line that reflects the vineyard’s limestone base. 

    At the Embassy, we started with the 2024 Pálava, their everyday offering that, besides the strong floral aromas, shows tropical notes such as guava and peaches, some ginger, and all within a surprisingly fuller body. Expect minerality racing through the finish. The second expression was the Pálava 2024 VOC which shared similar traits as the previous with additional spice and texture from the oak treatment.  The wine is produced under the VOC (Wine of Original Certification) appellation system, which guarantees the wine's origin and typicity. This wine provides both charm and structure. The winery believes both wines are ready for the international market. I heartily concur. 

    These wines are available through Wine of Czech Republic.

    ** Thank you to Kristína Eibl, Head of Marketing & Events at Sonberk Winery for most of the information about Pálava and the vineyard photos. 


WineCompass.com - a Tradex Consulting company
Vienna, Virginia
Fax: 703-991-2548
Copyright 2005 Tradex Consulting - WineCompass