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• Beer Centric: German Pilsner vs Czech Pilsner vs Italian Pilsner

  Posted: 2025-11-21 06:00

  German pilsners are typically crisper, drier, and more bitter than their Czech counterparts, often using German noble hops like Hallertau or Tettnanger, and may feature harder water chemistry to enhance sharpness. They are generally lighter in color and less malty than Czech pilsners, which are known for their fuller body, slightly sweet malt character, and the use of distinctive Czech Saaz hops that contribute floral and spicy notes.   In contrast, Italian pilsners are defined by dry-hopping, which imparts a pronounced floral and aromatic hop character not commonly found in traditional German pilsners, where dry-hopping is rare.

   

  

  
  

  Pilsner Urquell was my entry into European beers and when I happened upon Budvar, I was hooked on Czech Pilsner.  Pleasantly malted with a unique spicy finish. Eventually I started exploring Warsteiner, Bitburger, and locally Victory Prima Pils, Brau Pils, and the Hardywood Pils where German Pilsners became my thing. I think it's the maltiness and hard water bitterness that is so attractive. As for the Italian angle, I was never a great fan of that style since it seems that the dry-hopping overwhelms the mid-palate. In any case here's a breakdown of the three pilsner styles.

  
  

  
  

  Czech Pilsner (Pilsner Urquell and the Original Style)

  

  The Czech Pilsner, also known as Bohemian Pilsner, was born in Plzeň (Pilsen) in 1842 with the creation of Pilsner Urquell—the world’s first pale lager.

  • Appearance & Mouthfeel: Deep golden color with dense white foam. Medium body and soft carbonation.

  • Flavor Profile: Malty sweetness from Czech pilsner malt, balanced by the floral and slightly spicy notes of Saaz hops. The beer finishes smooth, with a gentle bitterness that never overwhelms.

  • Water Profile: The soft water of Plzeň is crucial, allowing the malt and hops to shine without harshness.

  • Overall Impression: A rounded, malt-forward lager with elegance and balance. The Czech Pilsner is a celebration of craftsmanship and restraint.

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  German Pilsner (Refined, Crisp, and Assertive)

  

  As the Pilsner style spread beyond Bohemia, German brewers adapted it to their own preferences and resources. The result was the German Pilsner (Pils)—a drier, crisper, and more hop-forward evolution.

  • Appearance & Mouthfeel: Pale straw color, brilliant clarity, and lively carbonation. Light to medium-light body.

  • Flavor Profile: Herbal and spicy bitterness from German noble hops such as Hallertau, Tettnang, or Spalt. The malt character is subtle, often described as “cracker-like” or “bready.”

  • Water Profile: Harder water contributes to a sharper bitterness and cleaner finish.

  • Overall Impression: Bright, snappy, and refreshing. The German Pilsner leans toward precision and refreshment—perfect for those who prefer a dry, crisp beer with assertive hop character.

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  Italian Pilsner (A Modern Twist with Style and Flair)

  

  The Italian Pilsner is the newest of the trio—born not from geography, but from creativity. It emerged in the 1990s when brewer Agostino Arioli of Birrificio Italiano created Tipopils, a dry-hopped homage to the German style.

  • Appearance & Mouthfeel: Similar to a German Pils—pale, clear, and effervescent.

  • Flavor Profile: Clean malt base with a bright, aromatic hop bouquet. The defining twist is dry-hopping, which imparts a fragrant floral and herbal aroma uncommon in traditional Pilsners.

  • Water Profile: Depends on the brewery, but Italian brewers often focus on balance and drinkability rather than sharpness.

  • Overall Impression: The Italian Pilsner brings elegance and modern flair—retaining the crispness of a German Pils while layering in expressive hop aromas reminiscent of contemporary craft brewing.

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  At a Glance: Key Differences

  Feature	Czech Pilsner	German Pilsner	Italian Pilsner
  Origin	Plzeň, Czech Republic (1842)	Germany (late 19th century)	Italy (1990s)
  Malt Profile	Malty, slightly sweet	Light, crisp, dry	Light and clean
  Hop Character	Floral, spicy (Saaz)	Herbal, bitter (Noble hops)	Aromatic, floral, dry-hopped
  Water Profile	Soft	Hard	Varies
  Body & Finish	Medium body, smooth finish	Light body, sharp finish	Light body, aromatic finish
  Example Beer	Pilsner Urquell	Bitburger, Jever	Birrificio Italiano Tipopils

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• Regenerative Farming: Why the Fuss?

  Posted: 2025-11-19 08:59

  

  Last year we posted a few articles on Regenerative Farming in terms of the core tenets being implemented at Grgich Hills Estate, Ridge Vineyards, and Domaine Bousquet.  Why the fuss over regenerative farming practices? Let's first look at the negative consequences of conventional farming practices. 

  • Soil degradation due to wind and water erosion, soil compaction, loss of organic matter, reduced water-holding capacity, and salinization in irrigated areas, which collectively diminish soil productivity.
  • The extensive use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides contributes to water pollution, contaminating groundwater and surface waters with nitrates, phosphorus, and other chemicals, leading to eutrophication and the creation of "dead zones" in aquatic ecosystems.
  • Monoculture practices and heavy pesticide use reduce biodiversity by harming pollinators and other beneficial insects.
  • The overuse of pesticides has also led to the development of resistant pests and pathogens, complicating pest management.
  • These practices also pose health risks to farm workers and consumers due to exposure to pesticide residues and the sub-therapeutic use of antibiotics in animal production.
    

  

  
  

  Now, let's examine the positive benefits of regenerative farming practices.

  • No till agriculture reduces erosion and keeps valuable nutrients and microbes in the soil.
  • Bio-diversity in the vineyard through at least four plant groups leads to sharing of nutrients.
  • Planting cover crops that become layers of armor by protecting the soil from sunlight and maintains moisture.
  • Let animals manage most vineyard activities such as mowing and pest control. Grgich Hills uses sheep, owls, songbirds, guinea fowl, and other animals to control cover crops and pests.
  • Institute labor practices that ensure sufficient wages and worker safety that leads to greater retention and thus increased productivity.

  Because of the negative consequences of conventional farming and the positive benefits from regenerative practices, farms are transitioning to various regenerative certifications. These include:

  • USDA Certified Organic: While not strictly regenerative, organic farming avoids synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, laying a foundation for further regenerative practices.
  • Demeter Biodynamic: This certification focuses on a holistic approach to agriculture, emphasizing soil health and biodiversity.
  • Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC): This emerging standard verifies adherence to principles focused on soil health, animal welfare, and social fairness.

  Over the next year we will be posting about Regenerative Farming practices implemented at various vineyards and farms such as here at Maryland's Burnt Hill Farm. As you can see in the video below the farm practices bio-diversity; planting cover crops; and allow animals, in this case sheep, to manage many vineyard activities.  

  Are there pitfalls and criticism of regenerative agriculture? Absolutely.  There is a solid argument that the global food system cannot transition entirely to regenerative methods without causing deforestation and habitat destruction, as there is insufficient land available for farming. The shift to regenerative practices also places significant demands on farmers, particularly smaller ones, who may lack the resources or support to adopt these new tenets.  Fair enough, but we should move away from synthetic fertilizers and pesticides that are extremely damaging. Your thoughts?

  
  

  
  

• The Essence of the Olive: From Tree to Taste: How Olive Oil Is Made

  Posted: 2025-11-17 08:14

  

  Behind every golden drop of olive oil lies a process that blends ancient tradition with modern precision. Much like winemaking or distillation, olive oil production is a balance of art and science — where timing, technique, and terroir determine the outcome. From the grove to the press, each step in the journey shapes the oil’s flavor, aroma, and integrity.

  For those in the beverage world, understanding how olive oil is made offers valuable insight into its complexity — and the same appreciation we give to the craftsmanship behind a fine wine or spirit.

  Featured Producer
  Terre Francescane is located in Umbria and the Gradassi family has been farming olives for 400 years.  In 1639, when – according to an ancient inscription found on a stone in the old olive mill – the Gradassi family began farming olives. Four centuries later they still proudly harvest olives from the same fertile slopes their ancestors did. I picked up this bottle of their L'Italiano Black Ceramic at the Rome airport duty free store and wish I had purchased more. It's slightly sweet with a pleasant bitterness at the finish - easy for a teaspoon a day diet. 

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  The Harvest: Timing Is Everything

  The olive harvest typically takes place between October and December in the Northern Hemisphere (and April to June in the Southern Hemisphere). The timing of the pick is crucial:

  • Early-harvest olives are greener, yielding robust, peppery oils with higher polyphenol content (the antioxidants that give structure and bite).
    

  • Late-harvest olives are riper, producing smoother, fruitier oils with a gentler profile and golden hue.
    

  Producers choose their harvest moment based on desired flavor, cultivar, and market style — much like vintners deciding when to pick grapes. In many small groves, olives are still hand-harvested, preserving fruit integrity and reducing bruising before pressing.

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  From Fruit to Paste: The Milling Process

  Once harvested, speed is essential Olives begin to oxidize and ferment quickly after picking, so quality-focused producers rush them to the mill — often within hours.

  At the mill (frantoio in Italy or almazara in Spain), olives are washed and ground into a thick paste using hammer or blade mills. This paste contains both oil and water, and the goal is to separate the two while preserving the delicate aromas and flavors.

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  Malaxation: The Quiet Transformation

  After milling, the olive paste is gently mixed in a process called malaxation. This slow churning (usually 20–40 minutes) allows small oil droplets to coalesce into larger ones — a critical step for flavor development. Temperature control here is key: to qualify as cold-extracted or cold-pressed, the process must stay below 27°C (80°F) to prevent flavor loss and preserve antioxidants.

  Professionals often compare this stage to maceration in winemaking or blending in distilling — it’s where texture, balance, and character begin to emerge.

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  Extraction: Separating Liquid Gold

  Modern producers use cen, the purest and highest-quality grade, obtained mechanically without chemical refinement or excessive heat.

  The remaining byproduct, called pomace, can be repurposed for compost, fuel, or lower-grade oil production, aligning with sustainable agricultural practices.

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  Storage & Bottling: Protecting Freshness

  Fresh olive oil is like fresh juice — vibrant, aromatic, and best enjoyed soon after production. It’s typically stored in stainless steel tanks under nitrogen or inert gas to minimize oxygen exposure and light damage. When bottled, dark glass or tins help preserve quality, and clear labeling ensures transparency on harvest date, origin, and cultivar.

  Much like wine, olive oil evolves over time — but rather than aging, it gradually loses intensity. The best producers encourage consumption within 12–18 months of harvest for peak flavor.

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  Craft in Every Step

  From the meticulous timing of the harvest to the precision of cold extraction, making olive oil demands the same attention to detail that defines great winemaking and distillation. For beverage professionals, understanding this process transforms olive oil from a simple pantry item into a crafted product — one that speaks of place, producer, and philosophy.

  For travelers, visiting a working mill during harvest reveals a world alive with sensory energy — the hum of machinery, the scent of fresh-cut grass, and the taste of vivid green oil straight from the press. It’s an experience that captures both the science of extraction and the soul of the Mediterranean.

  
  

  
  

  Next week, 🌿 The World of Olive Trees: Exploring the Varieties Behind the Oil

• On the Road to Old House Vineyards, Distillery and Brewery

  Posted: 2025-11-13 18:48

  I am very embarrassed to admit that this was my first visit to Old House Vineyards, Distillery and Brewery. And Culpeper is only about an hour drive away. In any case, it was well worth the visit. Our group tasted through a flight of beer, wine, and had a very impressive lunch from their Green Ribbon Kitchen. Beef Bourguignon for me.

  The beer flight consisted of the Big Iron Lager, Harvest Ale 2025, Sunburnt Farmer, and Pure and Simple Stout. The later was excellent, served on Nitro, and paired nicely with the stew.  The Harvest Ale 2025 was another standout brewed with 100% malted wheat and blended with Vidal Blanc pressings. Thus the vintage label. The Big Iron Lager is an American Pre-prohibition lager with more body than expected. I also wonder if a little rice makes it into the mash bill. Finally, the Sunburnt Farmer is an amber farmhouse house brewed with rye and wheat.  Expect a very distinct profile.

  The wine flight wove us through their Vidal Blanc, Rosie's Rose, Petit Verdot, and Bacchanalia Reserve (Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot blend). The reds were a surprise - my favorites of the flight. Nicely done. The Vidal Blanc is finished off-dry but the prolific acidity brightens the sugar blending it seamlessly into the tropical and stone fruits.  

  

  
  

  
  

• Beer Centric: Kellerbier -- A Taste of Germany’s Cellar-Fresh Tradition

  Posted: 2025-11-06 06:30

  

  The next Beer Centric profile is Kellerbier -- a style that we are seeing more often -- most recently at Juicy Brewing Company with their Schultz. Few beer styles capture the essence of "from the cellar to the glass" like Kellerbier. Literally translating to "cellar beer", Kellerbier offers a glimpse into the origins of German lagering and the unfiltered, naturally conditioned beers that shaped Bavaria’s brewing identity. 

  A Brief History of Kellerbier

  Kellerbier traces its roots to Franconia, a historic brewing region in northern Bavaria. Before refrigeration and modern filtration, brewers stored their beers in cool underground cellars or Kellers to ferment and mature. These spaces were often carved into hillsides or caves and provided stable temperatures ideal for bottom-fermenting yeast, which thrives in cooler environments. 

  During the 16th and 17th centuries, Bavarian brewers perfected this technique, leading to the development of lagers as we know them today. But while many of those early beers evolved into clear, refined styles like Helles or Pilsner, Kellerbier remained raw, rustic, and closer to the brewer’s original intent—unfiltered, naturally cloudy, and full of flavor.

  Traditionally, Kellerbier was served directly from the lagering barrel in the cellar. These early versions had a shorter shelf life but were celebrated for their freshness, soft carbonation, and malty depth.

  

  How Kellerbier Is Made

  At its core, Kellerbier is a young, unfiltered lager, typically brewed using traditional German ingredients and methods. The malt bill typically involves Pilsner malt or a mix of Pilsner and Munich malts to achieve a balanced golden-to-amber color and a gentle malt sweetness. German noble hops -such as Hallertau Mittelfrüh, Tettnang, or Spalt - are added to provide delicate herbal and floral notes. Kellerbier employs lager yeast (Saccharomyces pastorianus), which ferments at cooler temperatures (around 8–12°C / 46–54°F). The beer is then cold-conditioned for several weeks to smooth out rough edges, though it is typically packaged and served before full maturation—retaining a slightly yeasty, bready character. Unlike filtered lagers, Kellerbier remains naturally hazy with yeast and proteins suspended in the beer. It is often naturally carbonated in the keg or bottle, giving it a gentle, creamy mouthfeel rather than a sharp carbonation.

  Styles and Variations

  There are two main variations of Kellerbier: Helles Kellerbier (or Zwickelbier) and Dunkles Kellerbier.  Helles Kellerbier is generally pale golden, lightly hopped, smooth, and slightly sweet. Zwickelbier—named after the Zwickel sample tap used to taste beer directly from the tank—is essentially a lighter, younger version of Kellerbier. In contrast, Dunkles Kellerbier is amber to deep copper in color, with toasted malt and caramel notes. This style is closer to the original Franconian cellared lagers.

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