Chokeberry was an essential ingredient in the native American diet, either
dried for winter use or mixed with fat and buffalo meat in pemmican - a staple
of the native Indian’s of the prairie. Wild chokecherries were not only
abundantly available; they are also loaded with nutrition. Chokecherries are a
better dietary source of potassium (269mg/100g) than blueberries and
strawberries, and contain 4.7g of fiber, 1.5g of protein, and 0.3g of fat per
100g of fruit. Today chokecherries are used to make syrups, jellies, jams, and
wine; although winemaking is difficult because the berries are highly acidic
and quite tart. Plus the seed accounts for over 50% of the berry’s volume.
Despite this trouble and from its winter hardiness it is the fruit of choice
for many vintners in the northern United States and Manitoba, Canada.
The first winery to vinify chokecherry commercially and perhaps privately was
Prairie Berry Winery in South Dakota. The Vojta family had been creating wine
from chokecherry ever since the first family members immigrated to South Dakota
from Moravia in the late 1880’s. The recipe was passed to succeeding family
members up to the present, where current winemaker Sandi Vojta (the 5th
generation) decided to share the family wine. And why not, she grew up knowing
how chokecherry wine should taste and was certain the public would accept this
unique product. She first, though, had to convince the Alcohol Tobacco and
Firearms Agency to allow production of commercial wines from the fruit. Once
this was accomplished, other wineries were able to follow suit. Prairie Berry
Winery’s “bread and butter” chokeberry wine is their Great Grandma’s
Chokecherry, a wine made almost exactly from the original family recipe. This
wine is made semi-dry and has a strong fruity flavor. The winery also creates a
port-style chokeberry wine in their Great Grandma’s Chokecherry Bliss. In this
wine, the chokecherry wine is fortified with cherry Kirsch which produces a
great dessert wine. The chokeberries are also blended with grapes to create the
Pheasant Reserve and with honey to make Chokecherry Honeywine. The Vojta family
deserves our recognition for paving the path for the general public to enjoy
this fruit wine.
In neighboring North Dakota, Chokecherry wine is one of Maple River Winery’s
top sellers. According to Greg Kempel, Chokecherry wine is popular in North
Dakota because “Everyone that grew up in the Midwest on a farm either made or
knew someone that made chokecherry wine”. And since traditional vinifera grapes
do not fare well in the Dakota’s harsh climate, fruit wines, such as
chokecherry, must truly stand out to grab the public’s attention. Maple River
Winery’s version is semi-sweet and they recommend serving with red meat dishes.
Even though the wine is popular locally, the winery is seeking to alleviate the
national "Grape" obstacle, i.e. the belief that all quality wine is produced
from grapes. Mr. Kempel sees that, “with education, our chokecherry wine is
gaining tremendous popularity...even in wine country”.
Further west, in Mt. Pleasant Utah, Native Wines specializes in creating wines
from wild fruit. Chokecherry is one of their products, not only from its
flavor, but also from its healthy side effects. Each year the winery sends
samples of their red wines to a laboratory for antioxidant testing and
chokecherry wine always tests near the top in its antioxidant scores.
Chokecherry also has a long tradition of use in Utah, from the Native Americans
and early pioneers to the present. Mr. Bob Sorenson, Native Wines
owner\winemaker, says that many middle-aged and elderly customers are
pleasantly surprised to find Chokecherry wine available. Mr. Sorenson’s
Chokecherry wine is rather unique in that he adds a few pits of the fruit,
which creates a “warm spicy/nutty” aspect to the flavor. He admits that since
the pits contain a certain amount of cyanide some people may be worried about
drinking the wine. However, Mr. Sorenson reply’s that “many old recipes include
the nuts of the stone fruits and as long as the products are consumed in
reasonable quantities there will be no adverse effect”. We for one will take
him at his word and look forward to trying his version of Chokecherry wine.
Traveling north into Manitoba Canada, D.D. Leobard Winery started making
Chokecherry wine in 2005 after three years of trials. The winery is located in
Winnipeg and specializes in producing wines from locally grown or wild fruit.
Their Chokecherry wine is made from wild berries and made off dry, with a
strong cherry flavor. Although the wine has been well received by critics (it
was awarded a bronze medal at the 2006 All Canadian Wine Championships) it has
been demanding to produce commercially. First, the winery has found it
troublesome to find someone to pick their supply of wild berries. Second,
Chokecherry wine is difficult to produce. The berries are small and initially
highly acidic and quite tart. The winemaker must reduce these properties while
simultaneously extract the natural cherry flavor of the fruit. Finally,
although Chokecherry wine is very popular in Manitoba, it is difficult to sell
because of this popularity. Many people either make their own Chokecherry wine
or know some family member or friend who makes it; thus, according to Denis
d'Eschambault, one of the winery’s co-owners, “why pay for it!”
Chokecherry wine is produced by a little over a dozen wineries in North
America, most likely from wild berries and family recipes. The styles range
from the semi-dry version offered by Colorado Cellars Winery to the sweet,
port-style Chokecherry wine offered by the Lil' Ole Winemaker Shoppe in
Wisconsin. We are certain, regardless of the style, that the majority of wine
consumers will appreciate this wine, once the opportunity to taste one presents
itself.